Showing posts with label 1920's makeup. Show all posts

The Artist - A tribute to the real silent screen divas

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Glamourdaze's tribute to the original female stars of the Silent Screen era.

The Artist - The People behind the Hairstyles and Make-up

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Glamourdaze has already written in-depth posts on 1920's Make-up and 1920's Hairstyles, and we were delighted that Julie Hewett - the Make-up Designer for The Artist has agreed to be interviewed by Glamourdaze . More on that soon. In the meantime we'll take a quick look at her work on this amazing film.

To achieve a genuine and convincing make-up look for the 1920's era, Hewett had prepared by studying old black and white films. Interestingly, during shoots the monitors on set were in black and white which helped her perfect the luminescent looks of her stars.

Instead of pale makeup - which one would have presumed, Hewett kept the skin tones warm. Clearly an experimental process, she strove to achieve a natural look for the women. Peppy Millers lipstick had to appear to have shade and color - as opposed to being black."Your eye tells you to put a certain shade on, but you have to do what works for the black-and-white translation.” she said. Julie also has her own line of make-up available from her website Julie Hewett.net

Peppy Millers hairstyles created by Cydney Cornell, again was an experimental process, running several tests of famous silent divas, such as Louise Brooks and Joan Crawford. As it turned out Cornell said “Her hair was a combination of everyone because we were working with a particular actress and we were going for authenticity!"

Quotes from Below the Line - recent interviews with two key members of The Artist crew - make-up artist Julie Hewett and hair stylist Cydney Cornell.

The Artist - A tribute to the real silent screen divas

To achieve the genuine 1920's Flapper Look, visit Vintage Make-up Guide, where you can download beautifully restored beauty guides from that era.

The Unsinkable Cloche Hat - Beautiful 1920's archive film

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Peppy Miller - Cloche Hat 'The Artist 2011'

This unique film collection of women in the 1920's modelling the famous cloche hat is a treat to watch.
It transports you back to an iconic era when women gradually began to be emancipated from men.

When Angelina Jolie doned her famous cloche hat for the hit film The Changeling, she found it a new and refreshing experience - almost like being in a safe environment when out and about.


Angelina Jolie - Cloche Hat Fad

The forehead was simply not fashionable in the 1920's and hats fitted tightly down over the face.It's difficult to say which came first - bobbed or cropped hair or the cloche hat, but my guess is that it was the hat which dictated the new shorter hairstyles eventually as the 1920's drew in.

That said - many women who served as nurses and worked in industry during the first world war had to tie up or shorten their locks as they did again in the 1940's. So perhaps this necessity was the mother of invention for Paris designers.

The Cloche was said to have been invented by the great French Milliner Caroline Reboux who was in her 60s by the time she introduced the design.She was also was the first to add a veil to a woman’s hat. She created the hat by placing a length of felt on a customer's head and then cutting and folding it to shape.The true original Cloche hat is made with felt - though there are many ways of achieving the look - such as a wool hat for instance.

Our lovely sponsor Creations by Gail makes gorgeous 1920's style hats that would make anyone's mouth water.Whether it's a wedding, a special occasion or a 1920's Jazz themed party, you couldn't go wrong with one of her adorable creations.

Clara Bow - Cloche Hat Wearer

As the 1920's progressed and hairstyles became shorter, the brim of cloche hats all but disappeared, only to reappear spectacularly in 1930.Now, thanks to the the Artist and the coy hat styles of its character Peppy Miller - delightfully played by Bérénice Bejo, the Cloche Hat is as popular as ever. What other fashion era can claim such a success?
copyright glamourdaze 2012

Vintage Make-up Guides for Instant download.

1920's Women in Colour - Beautiful

FREE IMAGES Not very often does one come across color imagery of women's fashion and dress looks from the 1920's, but the National Geographic Stock Online have some stunning color photographs for sale of late 1920s women from different parts of the world - all taken around the same time period.
Feast your eyes on these examples.


1920's woman in Oxford - 1928 - Clifford R Adams - National Geographic

Two young 1920s women - Belfast - 1928 - National Geographic - Clifford R Adams


1920s Flapper - National geographic- Neal P Davis


Two Flappers - Arizona - 1929 - National Geographic - Clifford r adams

Mexican woman - Brownsville Texas - National Geographic


Two 1920s women buying ice cream - Cornwall 1928 - National Geographic


Two german women - 1929 - Cologne - Wilhelm Tobien - National Geographic


1920s woman - Glouchester, mass - National Geographic

Women Archers - Austin Texas - 1928 - National Geographic


Woman - Isle of Wight - 1928 - National Geographic

Two 1920s women - Laredo Texas - Cliffors R Adams - National Geographic

The last one is my favourtite - it's like a French master. And there's so much more over at National Geographic. Enjoy.
To get the 1920s Make-up look - visit Vintage Make-up Guides !

Helena Rubinstein 1920's Beauty Advice

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Below is a unique vintage 1940's beauty and makeup guide followed by some quotes from the famous Helena Rubinstein, originally published in December of 1922 .Enjoy!
By that stage, she had been a beauty specialist for nearly thirty years and was hugely famous, with salons in London, Paris, and other European cities, as well as new York and Chicago. Born in Poland, she studies medicine in germany, later concentrating on the treatment of the skin.Along with Max Factor, she was and still is one of the leading names in makeup .She sold her business to Lehman Brothers for $7.3 million in 1928 and after the crash, bought back the nearly worthless stock for $1 million and built it up to be the leading name in beauty it is today. While there was a vicious rivalry with Elizabeth Arden, both women shared the value of luxurious packaging, beautiful salons with attractive beauticians, celebrity endorsements and the notion of perceived value. That ethos is alive and well in the beauty industry today.

The Helena Rubinstein 1940's Makeup Guide

" If you can show me a woman who doesnt want to look young and beautiful - well, I'm afraid she isn't in her right mind. Women all want it - and we admit that they do ! That's where men and women are different. Men hate to grow old - but don't like to say so. And whilst most of them don't worry if they aren't handsome, I assure you that they are not so indifferent on this subject as you would be led to believe."

" The commonest problem among young women are enlarged pores and blackheads. This i snot
due to lack of cleanliness, and I have heard many girls unkindly criticised.It is caused by oily skin, and frequent use of bland creams make it worse.It is important to pay attention to young skin problems. If you have dry skin, avoid most soaps, as they are alkaline and like a thief in the night will steal what little food your body provides to heal the skin."

" A good smile is worth a thousand face lifts .The line going from the point of the chin is an infallible index as to the age of a woman.So pay attention to it. In youth it is a lovely curve, then it gets heavier and droops more and more as the face muscles begin to sag. Some women remedy this by remving a small section of skin under the hair above the ears, but this is not necessary if a woman keeps her facial muscles firm and healthy.The most common problem to beset middle aged women apart from contour loss are wrinkles. Persistant treatment with face cream and excersise will keep it at bay, but to lose wrinkles altogether is unnatural .Middle aged beauty, wrinkles included, is something a woman should be the proud bear of "

" The English have thin skin, the french and Italian women have thicker skin, and American skin, being a blend
of many nationalities is the thickest. Young american women have the loveliest complexions in the world in my opinion"

" Unhappiness in life and in marriage is often the very thing that makes a woman struggle to improve her appearance."

" The mother of a marriageable daughter is either a shining promise or an awful warning to possible suitors for her daughters hand"

" When using creams, if you use a nourishing cream for a time, then stop, your skin will become dry
again, but not worse. However, if you use a dry or matting cream for oily skin, then stop taking it, your skin
will get worse.Some women use belladonna to make their eyes bright. When they stop using it, their eyes are
not improved but have suffered from the practice. Women used to take arsenic to give them a becoming pallor. Some still do, the effect is truly awful. Do not use arsenic on your face !"

" English women I believe, make a greater effort to preserve their good looks than any other nationality.
In London I have several hundred clients, who are from seventy to seventy eight years of age.Regularly
three generations, grandmother, mother and daughter all visit me together"

1920s Make-up & Beauty Guides .

To get the 1920s Make-up style - visit Vintage Make-up Guides !

For some beautiful vintage makeup and hairstyle inspiration .

Downloadable calendars now at Retro Calendar

1920's It Girls - Louise Brooks and Clara Bow

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Louise Brooks and Clara Bow, possibly the two greatest female screen icons of 1920's beauty style.Their individual beauty helped define the flapper look and the jazz age of the roaring twenties.This film celebrates them both.
If you should ever need a definitive tutorial or just some tips on 1920's, fashion, dress, bob hairstyles, clothing and the makeup look of the flapper, these two glamorous women and beauty icons epitomize it all . Sit back and be mesmerized.

The 1920's Make-up & Beauty Guide.

To get the authentic 1920s woman's make-up look - visit Vintage Make-up Guides !

Copyright Glamourdaze 2010

Makeup History - The Makeup Look from 1910's to 1950's

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1900 Makeup Look

Makeup Look 1920's

Makeup Look 1930's

Makeup Look 1940s

Makeup Look 1950's

The Vintage Make-up Guide .

To get the genuine vintage looks and styles of 1920s make-up, 1930s make-up, 1940s make-up and the 1950s makeup - visit Vintage Make-up Guides !

MAKE-UP TIMELINE - The Makeup Look from 1910's to 1950's

Further to the last big post on the history of Glamour Makeup, here is a visual representation or
Makeup Timeline from the film The Powder and the Glory.
It serves as a great vintage makeup guide.

The Powder & the Glory, a 90-minute documentary narrated by Jane Alexander, tells the story of two of the first highly successful women entrepreneurs.Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein. One hundred years ago these women immigrated to America and, starting with next to nothing, created what is today the $150 billion global health and beauty industry.

The History of Makeup - Max Factor, Elisebeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein

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The Development of Women's Makeup from the 1920's to the late 1940's

See Also:
Vintage Make-up Guides - rare downloadables
The History of Lipstick
Shiseido - The Story of Japanese Beauty Makeup in the 1930's
1930's Beauty Guide
Complete 1940's Makeup Guide
The Correct way to apply 1940's Make-up

During the early years of the 20th century, make-up became fashionable in the United States of America and Europe due to the huge influence of Ballet, Theatre and the Movie stars of Hollywood.
Chief amongst the makeup wizards who helped develop cosmetics into a global mass market were Max Factor Sr, Elizabeth Arden, and Helena Rubinstein.

Post World War One , the Flapper look came into fashion and with it came cosmetics: Dark kohl eyes,Red lipstick, Red nail polish and it was fashionable for women to use bleach to keep their skin a pale milky white - in otherwords a good palette for cosmetics !

Of course Coco Chanel helped make the suntan popular and heralded the introduction of fake tan products helping both men and women to achieve that sun-kissed look !
In Asia, skin whitening continued to represent the ideal of beauty.

Max Factor

Truelly the inventor of Glamour !
He invented the term "makeup," based on the verb, "to make up" (one's face).
To millions of women all over the world today, the name Max Factor goes hand in hand with beauty,fashion and above all glamour!
I started collating a timeline of makeup and glamour only to realise that it almost goes hand in hand [ with just a few exceptions] with the inventions of Max Factor Snr.

In 1914 he created the first cosmetic made specifically for motion pictures!
It was a form of thin greasepaint.

In 1920 he developed the "Color Harmony" principles of makeup, which held that "certain combinations of a woman's complexion, hair and eye coloring were most effectively complemented by specific makeup shades."

This principle established for the first time that certain combinations of a woman's complexion, hair and eye coloring were most effectively complemented by specific makeup shades prescribed in "Color Harmony"

He created lip gloss in 1930.

Carole Lombard,Joan Blondell, Jean Harlow, Claudette Colbert and Bette Davis amongst others became regular visitors to his Hollywood Boulevard beauty salon. With stars like these as clients Max Factor's name began to appear in the movie credits.

In 1934 he introduced Liquid Nail Enamel, forerunner of today's nail enamels.

In 1935 he created Pan-Cake, the forerunner of modern cake makeup originally developed for color films.
The name is derived from "pan" because of its small, flat, pan-like container, and "cake" because of the form in which it was made!

Pan Cake later developed into the Pan Stick.
Though today women still puff away with loose powder and liquid foundations, the all in one panstick is present in every makeup bag to this day.

Max Factor's name appeared on many movie credits, and Factor himself appeared in some cameos.
He created many appearances for these actresses, such as Clara Bow's heart-shaped/pierrot lips.
Years later, he exaggerated Joan Crawford's naturally full lips to distinguish her from the many would-be stars copying the Clara Bow look he created.

A few final amusing notes on Max Factors genius .
He was always researching the science of beauty.

Below is the infamous Max factor Beauty Micrometer !

Max Factors Facial Ice Pack

He developed a special bonnet for the benefit of actresses who wished to refresh their faces on hot studio sets without spoiling their makeup, the facial ice pack [ pictured below ] was quickly diverted to another purpose by festive Hollywoodians. The headpiece, adorned with water-filled plastic cubes, is kept in the refrigerator while the water freezes.

Those girls really suffered for the art of glamour !
Photo courtesy of Modernmechanix

Elisebeth Arden

She invented the concept of the "makeover" in her salons.
Arden collaborated with A. Fabian Swanson, a chemist, to create a "fluffy" face cream. The success of the cream, Venetian Cream Amoretta, and corresponding lotion, Arden Skin Tonic, led to a long-lasting business relationship. This revolutionized cosmetics, bringing a scientific approach to formulations.

Other innovations included creating foundations that matched a person's skin tone; creating the idea of the "Total Look" in which lip, cheek, and fingernail colors matched or coordinated; and the first to make a cosmetics commercial shown in movie houses.
During World War II, Arden recognized the changing needs of the American woman entering the work force. She showed women how to apply makeup and dress appropriately for careers outside the home.
Arden also introduced modern eye makeup to North America after her formal training in Paris in 1912.

Helena Rubinstein

"There are no ugly women, only lazy ones."
Rubinstein formed one of the world’s first cosmetic companies and is recognised chiefly for her ability in marketing ! She was especially popular in the glam days of the 1950's.

A vicious rivalry with the other great lady of the cosmetics industry Elizabeth Arden also marked her life. Both Rubinstein and Arden, who died within 18 months of each other, were social climbers.
And they were both keenly aware of effective marketing and luxurious packaging, the attraction of beauticians in neat uniforms, the value of celebrity endorsements, the perceived value of overpricing and the promotion of the pseudo-science of skincare.

The Powder and the Glory (2009) by Ann Carol Grossman and Arnie Reisman, details the rivalry between Rubenstein and Elizabeth Arden.

So that's the three big names in the development of makeup in the golden age of glamour.
I think you'll agree that Max Factor was the real genius.
I'll leave you with some images depicting the makeup looks of the 1920's,1930's,and 1940's

The 1920's Makeup Look