Make-up History - Hazel Bishop's 1950's Stay-on Lipsticks

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Make-up History - Hazel Bishops Stay-on Lipstick .
The First Permanent lipstick invented by a forgotten genius.



When you think of make-up innovations, you immediately call to mind Max Factor, and rightly so.
He did after all invent lip gloss. Lip make-up was until after World War Two, still considered a beauty
accessory, rather than a necessity. However, by 1950, a survey found that two thirds of women wore lipstick all day.
Keeping it in place of course was a nightmare. Women were spotted everywhere, hurriedly re-applying their lippy at bus-stops, train stations, waiting for taxis or standing in elevators. It was - needless to say - stressful.
but one woman, and it's probable that it could only have been a woman, came up with the answer in 1949.
Her name was Hazel Bishop.

Born in 1906, she graduated from the Bergen School for Girls in Jersey City, New Jersey., attended evening classes in Columbia University and became an organic chemist.
In the 1930s she took a job as an assistant in a dermatological laboratory at the College of Physicians and Surgeons. There she worked with A.B. Cannon, who, with her help, would later launch the hypoallergenic cosmetics line known as Almay!

During the war, she worked for the Standard Oil Development Company and quickly advanced through its ranks, specializing in aviation fuels for long flight bomber missions.
Her dream of developing stay-on lipstick began during the war years, and while working a day job, she
spent evenings, conducting hundreds of experiments, until she finally nailed it.

Working with dyes that stained color into the skin, mixing them with oils and wax, she finally had the mix she
was looking for. The product was ready for launch by 1949.The main ingredient was bromo acid.
Of course today, bromo acid is not used anymore due to its skin corrosive quality, but those days, science
was the ruler of all thinking, and there were no regulations on ingredients.

Bishop had nevertheless produced the worlds first lipstick that stayed on till you took it off ! Quickly forming a company, using the business acumen she had learned from her parents, she launched her lipstick, with the help of Raymond Spector, an advertising executive she had brought in as a financing partner, Sales by Hazel Bishop Inc of the new stay-on, non-smear lipstick increased from $49,527 in 1950 to $10,100,682 in 1953 - an incredible achievement.

The Stay-on lipstick took the world by storm.
 “It stays on YOU,” declared the ads for Hazel Bishop’s smudge-proof lipstick, “… not on Him!”

With Spectors guidance, the company began an aggressive TV campaign, despite the fact that the medium
was in black and white.Such was the impact, the leading lipstick brand at the time, Revlon,introduced an ‘Indelible-Creme Lipstick’ in 1951  followed by a ‘Non-Smear Lipstick’ in 1953.
With such an explosion into the make-up industry, it seemed as if Hazel Bishop was ready to take on the
big names in cosmetics. Sadly it was not to be, at least not for its founder.
Unhappy with the direction the company was being led, by its chief executive and principle shareholder, Raymond Spector, she lost all control of her baby in a lawsuit.
Her cash settlement was $310,000, and she lost the right to use her own name.

Bishop often asserted that women have an understanding of cosmetology that a male chemist could never have ! She advised women to " accentuate their most attractive feature - the mouth ", and - oddly for such an independent woman, maintained that " young women's looks were more important than whatever drive and intelligence they might possess ." Strange.
Perhaps, her point was to assert your feminine power !

Bishop never ran a successful cosmetics firm again, but became an expert in stocks and shares in the cosmetics industry.
In the 1980s she became the Revlon Chair of Cosmetics Marketing at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Ironically, it was with Revlon lipsticks that Hazel Bishop Inc had locked horns back in 1953.
She passed away in 1998 at the ripe old age of 92. Glamourdaze salutes this innovative woman - Hazel Bishop.
For more on the History of cosmetics check out Cosmetics and Skin
Found this funny Wacky Package version of Hazel Bishop here.

Now available from Vintage Make-up Guides.
Beautifully restored and illustrated 1920's,1930's,1940's,1950's and soon 1960's make-up guides as actually taught to women in those glamorous eras.
They're a treat to have and read !

Vintage 1940's Beauty Secrets - Hair and Face Contour.

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Original 1940's Hair and Make-up secrets from Vintage Make-up Guides.
All 1940's hairstyles, were generally swept away from the forehead. The correct make-up contour to match this look is imperative.
So let's look at the four female face shapes [ you'll be one of these ! ] and how
to bring out your inner 1940's woman!
The Round face | The Long and Narrow face | The Oval face | The Square face


1940's Hair and Make-up Tips - The Round Face.

• 1940's Rouge for Round face.

Wear your coloring high on your cheekbone, and blend if off toward the temple and hairlines. Keep it away from nose, under eye and jaw.

• 1940's Lips for the Round face.

Accent the cupid's bow, but in drawing the lower lip, " square " the outline with a firm outgoing line from the corners to the center of the lip in a reverse cupid's bow.

• 1940's Hairstyle for the Round face.

Wear the hair high to counteract roundness, using a soft wave, curls, or a pompadour. The back may be worn up in a vertical bun or in a chignon.


1940's Hair and Make-up Tips - The Long, Narrow Face.

• 1940's Rouge for Long faces.

Place the apex of color directly under the cheekbones, and blend it outward toward the ear and hairline. Keep rouge away from nose, eyes and lips.

• 1940's Lips for Long / Narrow faces.

Eliminate any point at the cupid's bow, as this tends to elongate the face. For a more generous and rounder look to the mouth, build up the size of the upper lip slightly, accentuating the corners.

• 1940's Hairstyle for Long faces.

Wear the hair parted, in the center, or with a three-quarter part, keep it flat on top. let it fall in soft waves at the side of the face and in the back.


1940's Hair and Make-up Tips - The Oval face.

• 1940's Rouge for an Oval face.

Place your rouge just below the cheekbones, with the apex of color in the hollow under the cheeks. Blend it upward over the cheek toward the temple, ear and hairline.

• 1940's Lips for Oval faces.

Follow the natural lipline and draw the corners of the mouth clearly to bring out the full, natural curves.

• 1940's Hairstyles for the Oval Face.

As the oval face is the happy medium of all face types [ lucky you ! ] practically all hairstyles are becoming. For the very best vintage hairstyling tips and video tutorials, you cannot beat the amazing Lisa Freemont Street.

1940's Hair and Make-up Tips - The Square Face.

• 1940's Rouge for the Square face.

Place the apex of coloring on, but no lower than the cheekbone, and blend upward to the temple.

• 1940's Lips for the Square face.

Accent the cupid's bow for the upper lip. For the lower lip, make a reverse cupid's bow for center, and draw an in-curving line for the ends. This somewhat wavy lipline will draw attention away from squareness of the jaw. it really works !

• 1940's Hairstyle for the Square Face.

Wear the hair in an upsweeping wave, but with rounded effect.

For more Vintage Beauty tips - try Make-up & Beauty - 1940's Guides.
Now available from Vintage Make-up Guides.
Packed to the brim with beautifully restored and illustrated guides from the 1920's,1930's,1940's,1950's and very soon the 1960's - as actually taught to women in those glamorous eras.
They're a treat to have and read !

Check out Lisa Freemont Street for her truly brilliant and entertaining vintage hairstyling video tutorials.

text - copyright Glamourdaze 2012

Vintage 1940's Make-up Guides - Introduction

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Study your face closely ...analyze your every feature deliberately, and then classify it as an asset or a liability. When you have done this, you need only an everyday knowledge of cosmetics, and a basic understanding of face types to achieve the 1940's make-up effect which is most becoming to you.

You cannot actually change the shape of your face, but with careful arched contouring and with rouge areas strategically placed, you can either disguise or emphasise it's shape and structure so that the tout ensemble is both pleasing to the eye and reassuring to the soul.

Begin your make-up with the proper foundation ... a light fluffy cream - if your skin is dry, a lotion - if your skin is oily, and regular face cream if your skin is normal.
There are excellent products on the market today from which to select the best suited to your skin. So go out and have an enjoyable day browsing.
When you buy cosmetics, first satisfy yourself concerning the maker's name [ we recommend Mac or that old reliable Max Factor, for the smooth creamy 1940's style glide of their foundations and powders ].

Face Powder

First select your shade of face powder and be sure that it blends with your natural skin coloring - and that does not mean merely the coloring on your nose [ which is lightest ] but the skin of your face and neck. As a rule, it is best to stick to a light textured powder in order to flatter your skin the most.

1940's Make-up Contouring with Rouge !

In the next tutorial - we'll look at creating that perfect 1940's face shape - to go
with your fabulous up-do hairstyles.

This is an excerpt from Make-up & Beauty - 1940's Guides.
Now available from Vintage Make-up Guides.

Packed to the brim with beautifully restored and illustrated 1920's,1930's,1940's,1950's and soon 1960's make-up guides as actually taught to women in those glamorous eras.
They're a treat to have and read !

1940's Make-up Guide - How to have lovelier lips

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Nine Steps to achieving the Perfect 1940's Pout.

Excerpt from Make-up & Beauty - A 1940's Guide.

1. Never allow the lips to appear painted, irregular or poorly defined.

2. Never moisten the lips before the application of lip rouge, as this causes the rouge to roll and gives it a caked  appearance.

3. Always make the upper lip first. Then gently but firmly close the mouth, rolling the upper lip over the lower thus imprinting correct outline on the lower lip.

4.Apply lip rouge freely and remove excess by pressing and blotting with cleansing tissue. Repeat this until the tissue no longer takes an impresssion.

5.Never affect a small mouth, a tin lip line or a cupid bow. if lips are too full, don't make them up to the fullest extent if your mouth is of normal size and in correct proportion to the rest of the face, let it be clearly defined, carrying lipstick well into the corners and always remembering to keep the corners turned up slightly in order to preserve a smiling cast of countenance.

6.Never apply lip rouge heavily over a skin lesion or cold sore.

7.If you are a blonde with a light skin, never use dark lip rouge although you may do so if you are a light skinned brunette.

8.Don't use lip rouge and cheek rouge interchangeably. The color and texture of the lips and cheeks are different and the use of moist cheek rouge on the lips or lip rouge on the cheeks is bound to result in bad make-up.

9. Finally, to obtain a clear, well defined lip line, it is best to use a sable lipstick brush like the one pictured below.

•  Text transcription - copyright Glamourdaze 2012

For a full set of tutorials on 1940's make-up styles as actually taught to women of that glamorous era, visit Vintage Make-up Guide.

1940's Fashion - The Correct Way to apply your Make-up

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A summarised excerpt from Make-up & Beauty - A 1940s Guide.
The full book is available for instant download from Vintage Make-up Guide.

1. Cleansing

First remove all old make-up with cleansing cream which should be applied in an upward and outward circular movement. Remove cleansing cream, first with cleansing tissue and then with soap and water. Failure to remove all trace of cleansing cream will cause the face to look greasy. if skin is oily follow removal of cleansing cream with a skin freshener.

2.Foundation cream or Pan-Cake.

Apply foundation cream or pancake as explained in the chapter 19.

3.Moist Rouge.

See " Do's and Don'ts" following your particular face type chart from pages 51 to 56 in Make-up & Beauty - A 1940's Guide

4.Eye-shadow

For best results, always apply before powdering. See chapter on correct make-up for eyes !

5.Powdering.

Inspect make-up carefully before powdering. be on the lookout for telltale signs of demarcation. Pat powder on  - never rub it on ! Use generously and remove all surplus with a brush. You may use powder that is lighter than your foundation but never one that is darker. Remove all trace of powder from the hairline.

6. Eyebrow pencil.

Make-up the eyebrow delicately as explained in the chapter on correct make-up for the eyes. Use a stiff
bristled brush to remove surplus powder and shape the line of the brow.

7. Mascara.

Apply mascara as indicated in the relevant chapter, drawing the eyelid gently upward while at the same time endeavoring to keep the eye closed. This will enable you to apply mascara to the entire lash and prevent flutter. Follow the same procedure in applying mascara to the lower lashes, putting fingers on the cheek and gently pulling downward. The eye should be kept open.

8. Dry Rouge.

In order to remove any oil which might have been conveyed to the face and which would cause a blotchy make-up, powder again before applying dry rouge. As explained in the chapter on moist and dry rouge, the former is used to create the required contour and illusion, the latter to complete make-up.

9. Lip Make-up.

See your relevant face chart. Also refer to chapter on lip make-up where you will find listed nine rules for the creation of lovely, natural looking 1940's lips.

text transcription - copyright Glamourdaze 2012

Learn 1940's make-up tutorials as actually taught to women of that glamorous era. Instant downloadable guides also for the 1920s, 1930s, 1950s, and soon the 1960's !

Vintage 1930's Beauty and Make-up Tutorials

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Looking for an authentic vintage 1930's make-up look ? Want to feel like a 1930s girl ?
The these two extremely rare make-up guides spanning from the early to the late 1930's might fill your Christmas stocking very nicely.

 Found in an Oxford garage sale and lovingly and beautifully restored; Make-up by Virginia Vincent and The Art of Make-up by none other than Max Factor himself.

The 1930s make-up look changed quite dramatically from pencil thin eyebrows and lush expressionist influenced rouges and lip colors of the early 1930s, to a more subtle Hollywood ideal as taught by make-up geniuses such as Max Factor. Learn tips from the master, as taught to Hollywood actresses.

For the early jazz styled 1930s look as typified by Joan Blondell and Myrna Loy and Carole Lombard to a more ethereal make-up look in the late thirties as modeled by Bette Davis, Vivien Leigh and Merle Oberon. The differences and techniques on 1930s vintage makeup looks are subtle but fascinating to read. Many of the accepted ideas of contouring and highlighting, were only understood by a limited few, and every woman jumped on manuals such as these in order to emulate their favourite actress or feminine ideal.
Make-up and Beauty - Vintage 1930s guides -  is a charming and entertaining collection of restored vintage makeup tutorials and makes for an informative trip back in time to a gentler era.

Learn key 1930s makeup styles:

1930s style tips
how to apply 1930s style make up
1930s eye makeup tutorials.
Make-up for the Light Blonde type.
Make-up for the Golden Blonde type.
Make-up for the Chestnut brunette type.
Make-up for the Dark brunette type.
Make-up for the Titian-Haired type
Make-up for the White-haired type.
Harmonizing
Powder technique
Vintage 1930s Lipstick technique
Rouge technique
Care of skin before and after make-up

and so much more !

Treat yourself or a girlpal.

You can also get the Vintage Make-up Guide Bundle, which includes all 1920's, 1930's, 1940s and 1950's mkeup and beauty guides. A real bargain!

1950's Woman does her make-up - rare film

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Glamourdaze presents a rare archive 1950's beauty film of a woman at her dressing table applying her make-up. A charming glimpse into the 1950's fashion era and a 1950's make-up guide to application. Women had it pretty down-pat by the 1950's.

If you want the genuine 1950's beauty and make-up look as taught to women of that era, you can download rare restored 1950s vintage make-up guides.